Vikki Weldon

The Red River Gorge. Oh man, it’s still so hard for me to believe that I’m actually here. Mother Nature has graced us with splitter skies and perfect temps save for a day of torrential downpour just to remind us that she’s still in control. I have climbed 6 days since we arrived and already I’m noticing a marked improvement in my stamina. The majority of our days so far have been at the Motherlode, a fantastic crag stacked with anything from stellar 5.12 to stellar 5.14. Did I mention that it was stellar? I would say that the only downfall to this crag would be the lack of decent warmups, but most people are willing to overlook that factor once you have a good glance at the GMC Wall, theMadness Cave, and the Undertow Wall. What’s getting a little flash pumped warming up on Chainsaw Massacre, 5.12a?? Just as long as you can get warm so you can start jumping on some dream-like quality sport routes.

Up until 2 days ago I haven’t jumped on anything harder than 5.12c, as I just wanted to gain some stamina so that I can keep that deep forearm pump at bay. Also up until today I haven’t sent anything harder than 5.12a. Now that’s nothing to be disappointed about, considering the nature of the climbing here, but I have been experiencing a common RRG theme. The last move screamer. On a majority of the mid-12s that I have tried the past week, I have climbed to the top (with the deep forearm burst), and when I was so close to the chains that I could kiss them, I would be so wasted that I would launch uselessly to the last hold and come screaming off the rock. On one particular route called Ale-8 One (also a popular Kentucky soft drink) I fell far enough that I had enough time to scream twice. A double screamer. Awesome.

The last 2 days of climbing, Zak, Nick and I went to a small crag in Muir Valley, located about 25 minutes NE of Lago Linda’s, called Midnight Surf. The crag is aptly named, as the curvature of the rock littered with large chalked up shelves resembles a large black wave on a windy day. The climbing here veers away from the normal Red style of sloping pocket pulling, with large moves to huge shelves. The classic climbs there include Iniquity 5.12b, Cell Block Six 5.12c, Tapeworm 5.12d, and Shiva 5.13b. Two days ago I tried Tapeworm after becoming inspired by watching Zak McGurk onsight it with style. My second try I once again experiened the last move screamer.

Today, after a ripper of a night on the 24th celebrating my 21st birthday with my friends and the classic delicious Carlo Rossi wine ($13 for a gallon y’all) and a much needed rest and recovery day yesterday, I stepped back up to Tapeworm and sent it my first go. Psyched! I then hopped on Cell Block Six directly to the right and one letter grade easier than Tapeworm and was duly shut down repeatedly by one move. Ah grades, aren’t you just so subjective?

Tomorrow a huge Canadian crew is making a return to the ‘Lode after the break after the weekend where a reportedly 40 people crowded into the crag on Sunday. Included in this crowd is honorary Canadian, Audrey Sniezek! She’s back for more ladies and gentlemen.

Now time for the fun fact of the day: Chocolate milk as an optimal recovery drink. Fellow Canadian Nick Rochacewich informed me the other day of this great bit of news. Apparently, chocolate milk has just the right amount of carbs and proteins in order to help muscles recover. Plus it tastes wonderful to boot! Needless to say we are now stocked up with chocolate milk boxes to pound after a hard day of beating our forearms to a pulp.

Get on the choco milk train people!

Well we made it! The Gopher had no problems handlin’ the roads and now he’s enjoying a deserving rest in the field behind the cafe at Lago Linda’s Hideaway, our home for the next month or so.

We arrived in Slade, KY at 4am on Friday morning, exhausted to the point of giddiness. Luckily our friend Audrey Sniezek had a cabin all to herself for the weekend and was willing to share. We oozed out of the car and dropped into bed. The next morning we woke up late and after enjoying our first shower in 3 long, squishy days, we jumped back into the car and headed to the nearest crag; Roadside. I was blown away by the colour, quality and uniqueness of the rock. Zak, Regan and I would every so often stop and just look at each other with shit eating grins, “Dude we’re at the Red!” We jumped on a few moderates, but after 3 pitches my forearms were bursting and I was drooping from exhaustion. Not quite recovered from that marathon of driving! Zak cruised up a few 5.12 onsights, and we called it a day. It was chilly and drizzly, but I was stoked.

The next day, Saturday, we hooked up with Audrey and Lauren Lee and headed to the Drive-by Crag, which is located in the southern region of the Gorge, near the infamous Motherlode. Once again I was blown away. This was amazing! Long, pristine sport routes surrounded by the vibrant colours of autumn, what a trip. The sun had also graced us wit its presence and we looked forward to a few sunbeam shots throughout the day. Regan and I partnered up and preceded to knock down a few more moderates. I was determined to stay away from the enticing harder grades in order to ease myself into the pumpy nature of the routes here. My right shoulder also was feeling rather weak and sore and I didn’t want to push myself. Still, after 6 pitches I was toast. Done like dinner! I laid back and watched as Audrey and Lauren cranked 10 pitches, including Beer Belly, as stellar looking 5.13a. Back to the cabin for dinner and some team stretching. We also ran into my good friend, Gary Foster, who is up here for two weeks. That guy was as giddy as a schoolgirl walking up to the crag with his partners in crime, Mart

Yesterday and today I decided to rest. I had made the decision before I came here that I would have to listen to my body and not push myself too hard at the beginning of the trip. Too often I have injured myself because my mind is too eager and my body not ready. It was hard not to climb, as both days I went out with my friends to belay and cheer them on, but I want to do well on this trip, so I sat back and took it all in.

I just want to say a quick final word about Audrey Sniezek. Watching her crank over the past few days has been a huge inspiration for me. Today I watched her climb at the Motherlode. After crushing Subman (AKA The Hard One) 5.12d in one go, she moved left to the Madness Cave and gave us all a show in doing BOHICA 5.13b in 2 falls on her onsight go. Not only is this lady a crusher of stone, she also was a fantastic tour guide and host. Our first few days here have been so wonderful mainly due to her generosity. Thanks Audrey!

Everyone is feeling the forearms and shoulders today, but the sun is shining and the prospect of a day at the Motherlode tomorrow is a huge motivator to relax, stretch, eat well and get a good nights sleep.

The snowy Canadian road!

After a fair bit of an epic, Zak, Regan and I have finally started our long awaited trip to Kentucky! The epic: a last minute decision to get my car checked out, leading to a late afternoon start to our drive. Plus the added fun of playing tetris with all of our gear in order to fit it in a rather compact space. We won that game.

We are currently in the lovely picturesque town of Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan. By picturesque I mean it’s pitch dark, snowy and our hotel room has the lovely aroma of cigarettes and cleaner. Hmm hmm good! Now don’t worry, I am in no way complaining. This is what a road trip is all about and I am psyched! After 9 hours of driving, 4 of which consisted of white knuckling on black ice while being passed by semi’s at uncomfortably close distances, we have given up for the night.

Fresh start in the morning. We plan to be in the Red on Friday!

For now, here are some pictures from a family hike in Kananaskis Country at Barrier Lake.

Bark and snow

Snow and -16C in October. Yup, I’m most definitely in Calgary, Alberta! I made the 10 hour drive over two days, stopping overnight in Kelowna, BC to visit my little brother, Mike, who is hard at work at his first year of uni at UBC Okanogan. Aside from a pesky blue semi truck sniffing at my arse for a good portion of the drive, I was pleased that I had an uneventful drive and encountered great weather and dry roads the whole way home. Great weather that is, until I drove over the last rise of the foothills and spotted the ominous dark clouds that seemed to settle exactly inside the city boundaries. As I entered the city, giant gusts of wind threatened to blow  my little brown Nissan, AKA The Gopher, into the ditch, and rain spattered my windows. When I got home, my Mum cheerfully told me that it had been sunny and 20C just an hour earlier. Welcome back to Calgary.

So here I am, avoiding the elements, while just a few days ago I was soaking up sunny rays on the BC coast with my boyfriend Ryan, and Squamish was beginning to boast some supreme climbing conditions.

Why why why am I here? Aside from the obvious reason of visiting my fantastic parents, and the promise of some good eats at the annual family Thanksgiving reunion at Sylvan Lake, AB, my visit here is just a stop over on my way to a place that I’ve been dreaming of for a few years now.

Kentucky. Ah yes, the south. This is the place that has been captivating my dreams both day and night ever since I made the decision to postpone my entry into nursing school in Vancouver until January in order to take advantage of the ultimate climbing season of Autumn. The idea of forearm bursting pumps on fantastic rock surrounded by the brilliance of the turning leaves for an entire month makes my little heart pump wildly and my hands bead with sweat.

So there is it, in less than a weeks time I will be joined by my two friends and fellow climbers Zak McGurk and Regan Kennedy from Canmore, AB on the 3000km (plus a couple hundred km or so…) drive to the Red River Gorge in the good ol’ United States of America.

I’ll be posting news, thoughts, and pictures regularly while I’m down south. For now, I’ll leave you with a few pictures from an adventurous and slightly illegal escapade that my good friend Matt Johnson and I took part in on one of my last days in Vancouver…

Sea to Sky

Full Blown Sunset

Moonlight Bridge Crossing

Day two of the new blog! Here’s a few more photos for you all!

Next post I’d divulge my exciting plans for the fall. I promise there will be good reason to come back, so keep checking ‘er out!
Cheers!

Fireside Gazing at Leavenworth, WA

Expressing Joy at Another Beautiful Tofino Sunset

Noella KnifeandFork up to No Good

Well here we are. I’ve finally done it. I made a blog. Rather, I entered in a few key pieces of information, such as my name, and voila! My very own blog. It’s like Magic.

Now, why a blog? I’m not a very technology-savvy person. I get antsy sitting on computers, and I really believe that my mother knows more about the goings-on of the inter-highway than I do. I’m a person of no real importance. I haven’t discovered anything mind-blowing, or earth-shattering, or accomplished any glorious feat. That being said, I do have something that no one else in this world has. My own eyes. Therefore, this is a blog about the world through my eyes. One of the main reasons for starting up this blog is to share all of my pictures with you all. I love photography, and with the digital age in full swing, I’m finding that my pictures are just gathering dust in the far reaches of my computer hard drive.

So here we go, enjoy a few of my favourite pictures of a few of my favourite people doing my favourite thing!

Sonnie Trotter feelin some flight, Hueco Tanks TX

Sarah Austin on the 5-Star Boulder, Goldbar WA

Ryan Olson tiptoeing up Timeline, Mt. Evans CO