“…beware of the dark side…forever it will dominate your destiny, consume you it will…” -Yoda
(I swear I had to look that quote up…)
Consumed we have been by the Dark Side, a shady crag sporting aggressively powerful routes dotted with sharp, shallow pockets. Just looking at the crag description in the guide book filled us all with giddy excitement, as the book boasted that the “lines are steep, sustained, and more pocketed than most at the Red”, and the topo of the main wall showed no route easier than 5.12a.
Our last three climbing days have been spent at the Dark Side, and it resulted in a group decision to take two rest days off, a tough yet necessary decision. Our first day there, I hopped on the ultra classic of the wall; The Force 5.13a. Having watched our friend Todd Clark working out the main crux of the wall, I was psyched to try the dynamic moves that promised to be a ton of fun. As I worked my way up to the crux, I was surprised at how good I felt. I hit the first crux move with ease, and as I moved my feet up and surged towards the next hold, the thought of “wow, I’m going to freakin do this thing” flashed through my mind. The next instant, I hit the sloper and as my body swung back, I lost the necessary tension for a split millisecond, and then I was off. Frustrated, yet not upset, I pulled back up and immediately got back on to finish the route. While I rested, I watched Zak flash it, and Nick put in a valiant effort. As I got on for my second attempt, I felt admittedly more tired, yet I was able to stick the sloper and get to the jug rest before firing off the final hard moves to the anchors. As I lowered down, I was happy for the send, but for the rest of the day, I was silently kicking myself for not taking the flash. But by the end of the day I had let it go. I loved the route and had a great day, what more could I ask for?
Rodeo Clipping: The Ultimate Smooth Move
Our next two days at the Dark Side, Zak and I set to work at getting our asses handed to us on Elephant Man. At 13b, it is only a letter grade harder than the Force, yet my skin, fingers and forearms scream “No chance!”. But let’s not get all wrapped around grades. This route has proved to be my first real project of the trip, with my best go being one fall on our last day there. Apart from zero rests between the ground and the 6th clip and the sharp pockets, I feel that my real challenge with this route is trying to avoid my fingers numbing out. As the rock never feels the warming rays of good ol’ Mr. Sunshine, the rock is cool to the touch, and by the time I reach the middle of the crux, which includes a serious of deadpoints to bad slopers, my fingers are such useless blocks of ice that I can’t even feel the connection of the sloper and my fingers and I fire off uselessly. Or maybe I just need to suck it up.
As for the rest of the group, everyone is going strong. Regan joined us for the past two days at the Dark Side and set to work on The Force. She dominates the first dynamic throws of the route, and with a little work I feel that she will dominate. Nick is also working on the Force, and he looks so strong up until the point that he’s swinging in the air that I feel he is secretly letting go on purpose in order to enjoy the route just one more time. Aside from Elephant Man, Zak has also set his sights on Swingline, a proud 13d that our old Canadian team coach and climbing beastie Mike Doyle proudly onsighted on a previous trip to the Red.
Nick attacking Swingline (5.13d), The Dark Side
On our third day, the entire group was feeling the effects of the past three days of intense effort. Although I was able to one hang Elephant Man earlier on, by the end of the day I was giggling through the pain on a pathetic attempt on Tuskan Raider, a 5-star 5.12d. As I lowered down, I could barely close my hands, my skin was so shredded and cracked. Everyone was stoked though, especially when the day ended with Utah climber John Star giving a heart inspiring performance on Shanghai (5.12d). Just think blood curling screams and hands just barely hanging on to every hold for the final three moves to the anchors. Stellar.
Our past two days have been fantastic rest days apart from a little taste of the dark side of human kind. Driving to the Starbucks in Richmond for a quick coffee and internet check, we spotted two men with their fists up in the distance. Putting on the brakes, I was captivated by that innate, slightly sick, human desire to witness some carnage. Yet even from a distance I could tell that it would be an unfair fight, as the one man (we shall call him the giant) towered over the other. All too quickly, the giant had the other pinned and was smashing his whole body into the pavement. As the giant stood up and walked away, leaving the other unmoving on the ground, I parked the car and we booked it over to find the man unconscious and convulsing on the ground. A group gathered quickly enough and as another lady and I sat by his head until he woke up, we witnessed the police come and arrest the giant. The man on the ground woke up with serious short term memory loss (‘what fight?’), yet he was calm and cooperative with the paramedics. Watching the giant in the back of the cop car, I fought the shivers that ran up and down my spine. I cannot fathom the violence that must consume one in order to introduce another to such pain. Deflated from the experience, Nick, Zak and I were all too glad to head back to Lago Linda’s, where ideas of such violence are nonexistent.
Tomorrow we’re back at the Motherlode, where I’m psyched to give Bohica a solid attempt or three.
Happy days everyone. Smile, be well, and treat others with respect.
Terrifying Beautiful
Zak sorting out the endless pockets on Ultraperm (5.13d), Bob Marley Crag
Autumn Colours
Zak finding some new love in the finger crack of Rock Wars (5.10a), Long Wall
