Vikki Weldon

A window of opportunity. That’s exactly what it was. Mother Nature smiled on the boulders of Squamish for a few days this November, and give climbers a gift of zero moisture and cool temps. The exact combination for  perfect sending temperatures.

Last Monday I headed up to the boulders with my friend Mike Foley, a strong Boston local who has transplanted himself to Quest University, just north of Squamish. Foley is featured in this months Dead Point Magazine. Check it out!

The Saturday before I had competed at the annual Seattle Bouldering Challenge at Stone Gardens. I think this is my 3rd time competing in this competition, and like the times before, I had a blast. I felt strong and happy, and was super psyched to be bouncing around between problems with Lizzy Asher in qualifiers. She’s such a fun girl! I had qualified first for finals, which I was pretty psyched about. In finals, I finished all 4  problems, but due to a doozy of a mistake (I may have grabbed an extra hold on problem 2…ahem), I finished second to Audrey Hsu, a little beasty from Seattle. Honestly, I was pissed off with myself for making such a rookie mistake that costed me the win. But when I was driving up to the boulders on Monday, my frustrations lifted and a smile made its way to my face once again.

Bouldering OUTSIDE! In NOVEMBER! In SQUAMISH! Hurrah! I had one objective: No Troublems. Had to take that sucker down. Foley was psyched to do whatever, so I quickly dragged him over to the problem and set to work. Now, bouldering in Squamish in November during a cold snap that leaves you with dry rock has its draw backs; particularly the COLD. It was FREEZING. And windy. When we got out of the car, my crash pad blew half way across the parking lot. But, no complaints here. We were bouldering and psyched. Right away I suprised myself by quickly repeating all the moves that gave me so much trouble earlier this fall. Psyched!

I even made it to the top-out, past the hand jam section. But then..my fingers numbed out, I got scared, and I came down. Now any of you with any experience with this boulder will want to shake my shoulders and go “Vikki! NO ONE falls there!!” And those of you who don’t know this problem will just have to take my word for it: No one falls there. But alas, I am not no one. I am Vikki Weldon. And I fell there. Poop. After that, my muscles felt worked, the cold seeping into my blood and slowing its movement, and I could not recover without cooling down. After a few more solid attempts, I called it a day, which I’m sure Mike was psyched about because he had just spent the last hour and a half freezing his butt off and spotting me. On to the next problem! Mike worked a sick low ball V10 whose name escapes me out in the talus for about an hour before we both gave up due to the cold. The wind was unbelievable and it seemed that all my blood was moving away from its extremeties to save my vital organs (Look at that, a practical application of my pathophysiology knowledge after almost one full year of that course. I DO learn!. The end result: walking was tough.

Anywho, we bailed. I got a tasty beverage at a coffee shop and headed back to Van to coach the kidlets. My body temperature didn’t warm up until I went to bed. Brrrrrr….

Ok, fast forward 2 days. Wedneday. I skipped school (but don’t tell anyone), in order to take advantage of one more day of solid weather before Mrs. Nature snapped out of it and came back with a veangance. Big Willy Stanhope was back in town for a few days between trips, and after a run-in at the gym on Tuesday night, we hooked up for another day at the boulders. The following is most definitely the single best day I have ever had bouldering in Squamish. After a bit of a warm-up, we hoofed it over to No Troublems. I brushed some holds, threw a hand warmer into my chalk bag (key!) threw on my shoes, and hopped on the problem. 1 minutes later, I was belly-bumping my way up the slab to the top. SEND! No Troublems. V9/10. My hardest problem to date. Huzzah!

NEXT: On a roll, and after a quick text message conversation with my boyfriend Ryan, who urged me to head over to my main project of the year, I quickly convinced Will (and my big bro, Chris, who showed up after the send) to head over to Worm World Low. I was feeling elated and happy and was without a care in the world. After setting up the pads just right and taking a bit of time to remember the sequence, I mummy-taped my wrist and set to work. First try, I fell at the usual spot. But felt one major difference. The sloper had texture, and my biceps seemed a wee-bit stronger. After a bit of a rest, I hoped on again and……SEND! Worm World Low. V10. My hardest problem to date. Shazam!

A shot from the summer. Photo: Allen from Texas

So there you have it. I sent my two hardest boulder problems in one day in November in Squamish with two fantastic people spotting my freezing cold butt. Thank you Will and Chris. (And thank you Mike for the spots and support on Monday.) What an amazing day. We finished it off with a session on the terrifying Ride the Lightning (V8), which Will took down in the usual Stanhope fashion, and a lap on the fun and also slightly sketchy Loose Change (V7).

After that fantastic day, I went and made a nice fool out of myself by MCing at the annual Reel Rock Tour that took place in Centennial Theatre in North Van. I’m not a crowd person, so my heart was humming into the microphone, but it was fun nonetheless!

And now I cannot wait for the next window of opportunity. I have so much to look forward to!! But for now, it’s back to the gym. This weekend I’m headed to QUEBEC CITY for a Tour de Bloc competition at Delire. A wonderful early Christmas present from my favourite Villeneuves in Calgary have made this trip a possibility. Thanks Simon and Tara! I’m psyched to see my big sis with her shaved head, and to compete out East! Stay tuned for some pictures and words next weekend!

Love!

In a couple of hours I’ll be hoping on a air-o-plane for a quick jaunt over to my hometown for the weekend. It’s going to be a jam packed weekend of fun!
On Saturday I’ll be spending a whole fantastic day with my beautiful and kooky family, as well as my Ontario-based grandparents who I rarely get to see. We’ll eat some turkey, drink some wine, and be merry. It shall be fun!
On Sunday, I’ll be headed to the wedding of my most amazing and fantastic former coach, Knut Rokne, who is marrying the beautiful Colleen Cyca. Such a perfect couple and I’m excited for the big event. Unfortunately I will miss the rip-roaring reception that are common when climbers get married..or when climbers attend weddings.. Dang. But it is for a good reason.
I’ve been invited to speak on a panel of ex-youth competitive climbers at the Banff Coaching Conference. You can click here for a break down of the conference. I excited to be speaking with my big sister, Stacey, as well as with my friends, Sean McColl and Jason Holowach. But I think the biggest treat of all will be sitting beside Katie Brown on this panel. (oh you betcha I’ll sit beside her, hopefully rub some superstar dust on my shoulders..wink!).

I was very excited when Chris Neve, the organizer of the conference and a coach at this year’s past Youth World Cup in Scotland, approached me with the ideal of a panel of former youth climbers. The concept for this conference is ensuring that coaches are developing youth climbers with an enthusiasm to continue climbing in the long run. Each of the individuals have had different experiences with coaching and life after the youth circuit. I think it will be interesting to hear the sharing of ideas. I also hope that our experiences will help these coaches to effectively coach and nuture our future climbers in Canada and elsewhere.

So there ya have it. A short three days at home, but it’s going to be fun! I’m so super duper excited to see all my friends and family!!

Gobble Gobble

This time last year I was on my way to Kentucky to enjoy a 6 week adventure in back woods paradise. I’m getting some sad pains now and then whenever I see a fallen leaf or think of the sandstone rock underneath my fingertips. Sigh..

Here are a few pictures from such a wonderful time in my life. My friends Alex Quiring and Marshal German are tearing it up there right now. Read up on the trip here!

Zak McGurk on Golden Boy, 5.13b

Gary Foster goin for gold

The sunny Solarium Crag

Rest Day at the Park

Our beautiful campsite lake at Lago Linda's Campground

Hey all!

What a crappy September it has been here in Vancouver. Rain, rain and some more RAIN. Not very conducive for my beloved sport of rock climbing, but what can you do? Head on back to the gym, that’s what!

This month, as I’ve been transitioning back to a full course load in nursing school at BCIT, the amount of free time I have has dwindled substantially. School is busy! It always is, and I have a feeling it always will be. Not always a bad thing, mind you, but the timing hasn’t been perfect with my increase in psych with my projects in Squamish. Yet life keeps you on your toes, never allowing you to follow such linear thinking. Therefore, instead of heading to the boulders (oozing with wetness), I’ve been heading to the gym to pull on plastic.

The season coming up for competition climbing is a very exciting one for Canada. In May 2011, Canmore, the most beautiful town in the Canadian Rockies, is hosting Canada’s very first Bouldering World Cup event. It’s an amazing opportunity for Canada, and it couldn’t be in a better place. This event is creating a new psyche here in Van, and a great group of climbers are getting their training on! I haven’t competed seriously for a few years now, due to numerous issues, including injuries and a desperate need of a break from competitions.

This year, I plan to squeeze back into the competitive circuit here in North America. I’m excited regain my competition form and hopefully return to competitive climbing with a more positive and energetic outlook.

As a great start to the season, I was able to take a day away from the pouring rain in Vancouver last weekend, and head down to Tacoma, WA with my boyfriend Ryan. We woke up at 6am and headed down south, driving through some heinous storm bubbles. Never too far from the rain in the Pacific Northwest. As we arrived at the gym the first thing we heard was “Oh boy, the Canadians look tired!”

Vertical Club Tacoma is a fairly new bouldering gym, with amazing walls and a great layout. We had 5 hours to climb 5 problems. 1 problem per hour, not so bad eh? Yet with a huge turnout from all categories and ages, the waits between climbs tended to be fairly long, so I climbed right until the end. Phew!

Redpoint competitions are interesting in bouldering, with all categories intermingling through out the gym. I was never quite sure who was in my category, except for one person; a young girl named Audrey Hsu, who has fingers like vice grips. I started out the competition full of gitters and nerves, but as time wore on, I relaxed into myself and enjoyed the high quality problems and friendly atmosphere.

In the end it was close between Audrey and I. I think I ended up with one more problem than her. Very close, and very fun!  Ryan finished in 4th place. One spot away from the money! He started out shaky as well, but settled down quickly and dispatched the necessary problems with relative ease. In the end, he was one problem away from 3rd place, having fallen on the very last move!

Focusing up High

In the end the competition was amazing, and I felt it was a great start to my season. I didn’t feel in top form, and know I have lot’s of training ahead of me to be at the level that I want to be at, but I was psyched.

And I got a big fancy cheque!

I also just watched the finals for the UBC competition at the Nor’Easter this afternoon. It looked amazing!! Alex Johnson and Ethan Pringle took the crowns! Terry Paholek and Melissa LaCasse, the dark horse Canadians in finals, both climbed strongly in a stiff American field.

Yup yup, pretty excited to be climbing. Rock or plastic, I love ‘em both.

Get out wherever you are. Go climb, smile and feel the love!

Soggy Squamish in September. Dang. It was sticky. And it may be again very soon. But this weekend, soggy was the correct word.

Ryan and I headed up yesterday afternoon for a session in the Grand Wall boulders. The humidity hung low in the air and rock felt far from perfect. But the forest was empty, and we were happy to be touching some stone. We picked up our friend, Mike Foley, who is going to school at Quest University, and headed into the boulders.

Ryan and Mike both made fairly quick sends of the impressive and slightly nerve-wracking Physics Hyperbole (V9).

Ryan scrunching it up on Physics Hyperbole V9

Mike Foley cruising Physics Hyperbole V9

We then made our way over to the mammoth Cacodemon boulder and I hopped on No Troublems (V9? V10?) and was able to do all the moves! Progress! Hopefully a few more days of effort and I’ll nab this one.It’s a powerful problem and I feel that each move is at my max right now, but that’s how projects feel at the beginning. Soon enough, the rain began in full strength. Holds became mangy ([main-gee] a new ‘merican word I learned from Foley!), my arms became noodley, and I packed up to watch the boys project Dreamcatcher (5.14d).

Foley making his way to the pin-scar section

New view of the beautiful Dreamcatcher 5.14d

Both made some solid links! All in all, it was a fun day! We rounded it off with a great sushi dinner. Yum

Grand Wall Forest just before the rain

The past few weeks have exhibited both an extreme high and low for climbers; the girls in particular. Angie Payne proved herself as one of, if not the, strongest female boulderer in the world today by completing the Automator (an established V13) at RMNP in Colorado. Angie is on a rampage this season after coming back from a year long hiatus due to an ankle injury. She’s a a champ on the stone and a true inspiration to me.

The climbing world also suffered a severe loss with the death of Belgium climber Chloe Graftiaux  earlier this month. Chloe won the Vail World Cup this year and was  ranked 3rd in the Boulder World Cup series this season. It was an untimely and unfair death and my condolences go out to her family and friends around the world.

I feel that these two events have shown us the highs and lows that the sport of climbing has to offer. We can work hard and achieve what has never been done before, and we can also suffer the consequences of a dangerous sport. Now I know that Angie was bouldering and Chloe was alpine climbing, and both offer different dangers and challenges, but there is a common thread of success and consequence in all forms of climbing.

These two events, as well as my own experience in the past week has ignited a little flame in my soul.

This past Tuesday I headed out to Squamish with my boyfriend Ryan for an evening bouldering session. The goal for Ryan was to complete an absolutely beautiful and asthetic V10 called Hydra in the North Wall boulders (a problem that I cannot do a single move on..sigh), and for me to continue to work on Worm World Low. Ryan made progress on the problem (and sent it quickly on Saturday when we went again. The photos below are from Saturday).

Ryan crushing Hydra V10, The North Walls

Hydra V10

"Sasha l'avion!"

It ended up being dark when we walked into the Grand Wall boulders to World World. As I walked in I was completely devoid of enthusiasm. I’ve been working this problem all summer and am completely stumped at one move every single time. It’s frustrating. Instead of approaching the problem with a clear mind and psyche, I was already anticipating the frustration and failure. I was not appreciating the cool night air or the wonderful person by my side, and the fact that I was engaging in the sport I love most. Nope. It was a grumpy girl brushing the problem and pulling on her shoes that night.

As I worked the powerful sloper moves on the bottom of the problem, I felt my right wrist was weak. Usually I tape my wrist for these moves to help support it, but alas, no tape in my bag that day. I managed to do the crux move from a lower down move (I won’t slay you with details on the problem), something I had not managed to do before. Instead of feeling excited with the progression, I was indifferent. The next moment, I was trying the same move and felt an intense pain in my wrist. Busted. I could barely open my hand and could not hold on to any holds. The day was over and I immediately fell into a depressive state.

I’m no stranger to injuries. Just this spring I injured my shoulder and am still recovering from that. As a youth climber I suffered serious finger injuries, and I still feel the lingering effects from those as well. It sucks. Simple as that. Injuries are a pain in the ass. Yet they also come with the sport.

The next few days I was overcome with regret. My wrist ached constantly and all I wanted to do was go back out and climb. It’s funny how you don’t appreciate something until you’ve lost it (cliche alert!). I went back out to Squamish this past Saturday to watch Ryan kill it on The Hydra and to watch him session a crazy hard testpiece called The Squaminator (V12), also in the North Walls. Awesome to watch people crank, not so awesome to be sitting with your ass on the ground and your shoes in the car.

But the next day. A sliver of hope! I taped my wrist up like a mummy and tentatively climbed a few moderates. Not completely pain free, but definitely not as bad as I thought. After not even a week on the ground I felt rejuvinated. It was so good to just climb. I was with amazing people (Thomasina Pidgeon as well as her little girl, Cedar) who inspire me and make me happy. It was fun. Plain and simple fun. The way it should be.

Thomasina hanging out at Paradise Valley

Cedar brushing holds just like her mama!

Rock Lady Boulder, Paradise Valley

Crushing at the Rock Lady Boulder, Paradise Valley

So I just wanted to share with you all the lesson I have learned and hope to keep learning. Appreciate the ability to be able to do what we love. Push yourself to new heights and keep in mind the consequences our endeavours can have. Angie Payne and Thomasina Pidgeon are my heroes. Chloe Graftiaux was a soul lost to us too early. Climbing takes you to heaven and hell and back again. Enjoy the beauty, push yourselves, be healthy and be aware.

This past weekend I spent both days under the shadow of the Chief in Squamish. I haven’t bouldered in Squamish for a few months, and to be honest, I hadn’t been that psyched to spend that much time there this summer. I was tired of the same old problems and areas. But this weekend, I headed out with a group of psyched climbers, keen on finding some different boulders. With the help of the new Squamish Bouldering guidebook authored by Marc Bourdon, which contains tons of new problems, we had an amazing weekend!

I tried a ton of new problems, and rediscovered my love of the Squamish boulders.

I also began to work on a beautiful and often climbed V10 at the Grand Wall Boulders called Worm World Low. I have done the stand start, which is a soft V9, and had dabbled on the low start a few times last summer. I have never put a huge effort into a boulder problem. I most often focus on sport routes in the summer. Last summer I put my heart and soul into Division Bell, up at Chek. Yet this summer, I’ve been bouldering alot and I think it would be amazing to try something hard and to put a lot of effort into it. Worm World Low is perfect, because all the hard moves are made with your left arm, which saves my still recovering right shoulder. So I’ve made it my goal to try Worm World Low and just see what happens.
Also, lately the girls have been KILLING IT in the boulder fields. Thomasina Pidgeon recently climbed The Summoning Sit, a sick V12 at the Murrin boulders near Squamish. Angie Payne just sent No More Greener Grasses, a stiff V12 at Mount Evans. Alex Puccio also recently sent Centaur, V12, and flashed a V10 called Fireball. It’s just amazing to see such power and strength come from these dedicated climbers, and I know they are all capable of pushing the boundaries of female bouldering. I’m inspired and psyched and I want to climb as hard as them. One step at a time!

Here are a few pics from the weekend.

Ryan working Stalling Tim, V10

Jamie running a lap on Killing Me Softly, V6

Enjoying Prime Time Sit, V5, at the Murrin boulders

Ryan Chilling with the Chief

FREE RANGE TURKEY_dispatch #7 from camp4 collective on Vimeo.

Finally, I recently came across this short video clip of Yuji Hirayama, one of the most impressive rock climbers in the world. I say impressive, because not only is he a talented and intelligent climber, with the capability to onsight 5.14 routes, he is also one of the most positive and happiest people. This video showcases this attitude and I was so inspired by Yuji’s philosophy. So check it out, feel the psych, and go climb some rock!

This just in! Sean McColl just finished second place in the World Cup today in Eindhoven. Ryan and I just watched it live through a link on the IFSC website. Sean finished agonizingly close to the first place winner, with a one fall difference between the two. Anna Stohr finished first for the women, even though she wasn’t able to finish the first problem. She just floats up the wall. What an inspiration.  Check out the full results at the IFSC website.
Way to go Sean! We are cheering for you!!! Keep it up and have a blast.

Now time for Squamish!!

Howdy. Here are a few fun climbing snaps from a weekend trip to Pemberton Ryan and I took a few weeks ago. It was perfect weather and we both had a great time, climbing on the classics of the area.
Into the Light is a beautiful problem and according to Ryan, “probably the best boulder problem in B.C.” Phew! What a claim! It sure was fantastic though.
We were also lucky enough to bump into a friend from Squamish who gave us the low down in a beautiful little gem hidden beside a waterfall. It felt like we were in a fantasy world, hiding in the little alcove right next to a raging waterfall. Such a trip.

Well, that’s all for now. I just hope you enjoy these photos.

Side note: Stacey (my big sis!) finished an impressive 24th place in her first open bouldering world cup in Vail, CO this weekend. Ryan also competed and finished an equally impressive 26th place. One fall from making semi-finals. Balls! Next time! Sean McColl finished 16th, falling out of the final 6 after the semi-final round. I’m sure the big guy ain’t too happy, but hell, he has a whole summer of Euro fun to make up for it. Have a wonderful trip!

Until next time,

xoxo

Morning Blossoms

Olson climbing "Into the Light" Classic!

Into the Light once again

Brushin off 'em rocks

Dazed and confused on "White Bread Lover"

Into the Light. Step 1

Step 2!

Gushing Waterfall. Classic Unnamed

I’m really really excited to announce that I’ve been accepted as an athlete for Team Five Ten. Five Ten has been making shoes since before I was  that big annoying bump hanging off my mama’s belly. I can remember back when I was a wee lass and had just graduated from the Boreal Ninjas, I was quickly drawn into the world of Five Ten. I would continually climb through pair after pair of the ol’ Dragon’s, refusing to take them off my feet even when my big toe was scrapping against the walls. I just received a box of shoes, which I opened with the gusto of a 5-year old at Christmas time. I’m back wearing Five Ten’s! I’m ecstatic to be an ambassador for such a fantastic and respected company.

In joining the Five Ten team, I have had to resign as a member of Team Mad Rock. Mad Rock invited me to the team in 2003. I can still remember my teenage voice yelling in excitement in my head as I stammered out a trembly ‘thank you..’ to Timy Fairfield as he offered me a spot on the team. In the past 7 years, Mad Rock has supported me endlessly, and I cannot thank them enough. I feel they are a wonderful and innovative company who truly cares for their products and their athletes. I wish them all the best in the future!

Hey team.

Just sneaking around the interweb and saw a few posts about the final results. Couldn’t find the full results (not sneaky enough) but here are the top 3 in each category:

Women’s

1. Clarrie Lam

2. Elise Sethna

3. Melissa Lacasse

Men’s

1. Sean McColl

2. Yves Gravelle

3. Terry Paholek

These are the provisional results apparently, so don’t get all cranky if there is a mistake.

Stacey ended up finishing 4th. A strong finish for a girl making a comeback in the world of competition rock climbing. She admitted she was a tad bit upset, but when I chatted with her she was all happy and ready to enjoy friends and bubbly drinks at the afterparty. There seems to be a theme with the comeback girls lately. Angie Payne made quite the show last weekend at the ‘Battle in the Bubble’ in Boulder, CO, just barely conceding to Alex Puccio on the final problem. She’s apparently been out for the game for quite a while due to an intense injury. It’s all very inspiring to watch these girls perservere and come back strong.

On another note, I also heard that the prize money for this competition was given for up the 6 places in the Men’s category and only up to 3 places in the Women’s. Don’t quote me on these exact numbers by the way. In any case, it is an interesting situation. There were 44 men registered in the competition while only 15 girls entered. That is a whopping big difference. And in that respect, then perhaps it is fair to give more money for guys? BUT..think about it. Girlies don’t have a choice to be girlies. They just are. They cannot control how many of their sex enters into a competition. They try just a hard as the guys to earn their ranking at the end. So how come they should get penalized for this? Also, prize money is normally given out equally to both men and women through out the TDB circuit. Prize money is not controlled by the TDB, but rather the gyms that hold the comps. And there normally is alot more men than women at any given competition. So it seems to be out of the ordinary, and may be why it is causing a bit of an upset.

Just something to think about. I’m sure there will be lot’s of debate on the subject. There are always two sides to the story. In my opinion, I would say that it is unfair to give less money to the girls. But I am a girlie. So I’m a tad bit biased. Anyways, your thoughts ladies and gents?