Vikki Weldon

Zak giving it on the stellar Last of the Bohicans (5.13d), Madness Cave

Picture this: last day at the Red, a project undone, one headlamp, and an empty amphitheater of rock swallowed by the blackness of night. Rad.

This is how my friend, Zak McGurk, experienced his last day in Kentucky. It was American Thanksgiving, and Zak and I headed back to the Motherlode one last time, in order for him to attempt to send his project, Last of the Bohicans. This amazing 5.13d is the extension to the classic 100 foot long BOHICA (5.13b) in the Madness Cave. (fun fact of the day: BOHICA stands for Bend Over Here It Comes Again. Love it). Zak had done the route with one fall on a previous day, and was eager to complete it before heading back to the Great White North (that’s Canadia for all you southern folks). It started out as a gorgeous sunny day, and we were giddy and gushing over our great luck with the weather. Yet as soon as we warmed up and headed over to the Madness Cave, the sky instantly darkened with clouds and the air turned frigid. Nice one.

Zak’s first attempt on the route was proud and he fell after overshooting the shallow pocket on the crux section. As he rested, I attempted to flash the classic Snooker (5.13a) on the GMC Wall. I felt strong, yet fell immediately before the gigantic rest (of course). When I got down, Zak was not yet ready to go, so we booked it back to the car to warm up, as the wind was seeping into every crack and seam in our clothing. On his second burn he once again failed to latch the pocket and came down frustrated yet not deterred. I hopped back on Snooker and managed to send it second go, which I was thoroughly psyched about.

As the sun set behind the hills, the Madness Cave began to turn into a wall of black. Luckily, Zak managed to borrow a headlamp and he set back up the route for a third time. As I stood at the bottom of the route in the dusk of the day, I could barely make out anything but the silhouette of Zak’s body cruising up the first 100 feet of the route. As he headed towards the crux, I yelled and screamed at him, pushing him with all the mental strength I had to stick that pocket. In the darkness of night I saw him throw for it, latch on to it..and after a full stop when I thought he had it, he came screaming off into the black. I expected a huge wobbler to erupt from Zak, but no, instead I heard this “Man, that was the most amazing thing ever! You really need to try climbing up here with a headlamp. It’s unreal!” I was shocked and amazed, and truly inspired. To have that attitude, to be able to fall on your last burn of the trip, on a route where you are oh so close to the chains, is truly incredible. That is pure love for the sport right there.

As I started to pack away the rope, Zak is still gushing. After about a 10 second pause in which he stares up at the wall, he turns to me and said “Can I try it once more?” Hell yeah! The sun has fully disappeared for the night, and  all I can see is his illuminated torso as he heads up the route one last time. Completely gassed, he fell once more at the pocket, and once again came down with a shit eating grin on his face. “Guess that just means you’ll have to come back next year eh?”

“Oh for sure”

Perfect Setting for a Horror Show

Alex Puccio reaching new heights on Tuna Town (5.12d), Undertow Wall

Todd Clark finding crimp after heinous crimp on Paradise Lost (5.13b), Purgatory

'Terrorist Hunting Permit' Gotta love 'merica!

Life is sweet. I’ll have many a folk argue me on that point, and sure life can be sour, bitter or just pure tasteless at times, but right here and right now, life is as sweet as honey. Today, I woke up and peeked my head out of my tiny home to see bluebird skies. It being a rest day, we hung out at Lago Linda’s all day, soaking up the mid-November rays. At the moment, I’m sitting by the fire having just enjoyed some fire roasted stuffed bell peppers for dinner. Nothin’ but smiles!

Having been here for over a month now, I have settled into a simple, relaxed routine. The forefront matters in my mind have been where to climb, what to climb, what to eat, and when to drag myself into town to restock up on the ol’ food and wine storage. Yet lurking in the back of my mind are the responsibilities and duties from my life back home that will never quite evaporate into thin air. But here, where the air is clear, great people and good vibes create an awesome atmosphere for climbing.

Proud pose from the new musician

Lago Linda Lifestyles

Chillin' with the Villains

Rest Day Activity

Ah..Life is sweet

Nick the Master Woodsman

Lately, the troops have been heading up to the Motherlode for some punishing forearms pumpage. Both Nick and our friend Todd made fantastic ascents of Convicted (5.13a) at the Undertow Wall, while Zak and I both sent BOHICA (5.13b) in the Madness Cave. Every day I see some amazing feats of strength and effort that inspire me to try harder than ever. Watching Kevin Wilkinson put in an honest to god ‘dig deep’ effort for the last move on Pushin’ Up Daisies (5.13c) to make the send made me never want to give up ever again.

Yet, even though the psych remains high, I can feel that my body is sending me signs telling me that it is tired. Yesterday as I was warming up to get back on Flour Power (5.13b) in the Madness Cave, I pulled on a crimp and could feel the tendons in my right hand cringing. I instantly took and lowered down, and became worried when it hurt to close my hand. Minutes later, my right shoulder was feeling some worrying shooting pains. I instantly became discouraged and decided to call it a day in hopes that two more days of rest would reset my body.

Tomorrow we are headed to Purgatory, a crag that boasts a classic 13b called Paradise Lost that I’m eager to try and the famous Lucifer (5.14c) that I’m eager to stare at in wonder. The shoulder feels good today and I’ve promised my tendons that if they’re good to me for two more weeks I’ll give them a decent rest back in the motherland.

Peace for now. Enjoy the photos and I hope there is some great psych wherever you reside. If not, create some!

Alaska Bruce crushing another Undertow classic at the Motherlode Crag

Nick using The Force (5.13a) The Dark Side. Photo Credit: Zak McGurk

“…beware of the dark side…forever it will dominate your destiny, consume you it will…” -Yoda

(I swear I had to look that quote up…)

Consumed we have been by the Dark Side, a shady crag sporting aggressively powerful routes dotted with sharp, shallow pockets. Just looking at the crag description in the guide book filled us all with giddy excitement, as the book boasted that the “lines are steep, sustained, and more pocketed than most at the Red”, and the topo of the main wall showed no route easier than 5.12a.

Our last three climbing days have been spent at the Dark Side, and it resulted in a group decision to take two rest days off, a tough yet necessary decision. Our first day there, I hopped on the ultra classic of the wall; The Force 5.13a. Having watched our friend Todd Clark working out the main crux of the wall, I was psyched to try the dynamic moves that promised to be a ton of fun. As I worked my way up to the crux, I was surprised at how good I felt. I hit the first crux move with ease, and as I moved my feet up and surged towards the next hold, the thought of “wow, I’m going to freakin do this thing” flashed through my mind. The next instant, I hit the sloper and as my body swung back, I lost the necessary tension for a split millisecond, and then I was off. Frustrated, yet not upset, I pulled back up and immediately got back on to finish the route. While I rested, I watched Zak flash it, and Nick put in a valiant effort. As I got on for my second attempt, I felt admittedly more tired, yet I was able to stick the sloper and get to the jug rest before firing off the final hard moves to the anchors. As I lowered down, I was happy for the send, but for the rest of the day, I was silently kicking myself for not taking the flash. But by the end of the day I had let it go. I loved the route and had a great day, what more could I ask for?

Rodeo Clipping: The Ultimate Smooth Move

Our next two days at the Dark Side, Zak and I set to work at getting our asses handed to us on Elephant Man. At 13b, it is only a letter grade harder than the Force, yet my skin, fingers and forearms scream “No chance!”. But let’s not get all wrapped around grades. This route has proved to be my first real project of the trip, with my best go being one fall on our last day there. Apart from zero rests between the ground and the 6th clip and the sharp pockets, I feel that my real challenge with this route is trying to avoid my fingers numbing out. As the rock never feels the warming rays of good ol’ Mr. Sunshine, the rock is cool to the touch, and by the time I reach the middle of the crux, which includes a serious of deadpoints to bad slopers, my fingers are such useless blocks of ice that I can’t even feel the connection of the sloper and my fingers and I fire off uselessly. Or maybe I just need to suck it up.

As for the rest of the group, everyone is going strong. Regan joined us for the past two days at the Dark Side and set to work on The Force. She dominates the first dynamic throws of the route, and with a little work I feel that she will dominate. Nick is also working on the Force, and he looks so strong up until the point that he’s swinging in the air that I feel he is secretly letting go on purpose in order to enjoy the route just one more time. Aside from Elephant Man, Zak has also set his sights on Swingline, a proud 13d that our old Canadian team coach and climbing beastie Mike Doyle proudly onsighted on a previous trip to the Red.

Nick attacking Swingline (5.13d), The Dark Side

On our third day, the entire group was feeling the effects of the past three days of intense effort. Although I was able to one hang Elephant Man earlier on, by the end of the day I was giggling through the pain on a pathetic attempt on Tuskan Raider, a 5-star 5.12d. As I lowered down, I could barely close my hands, my skin was so shredded and cracked. Everyone was stoked though, especially when the day ended with Utah climber John Star giving a heart inspiring performance on Shanghai (5.12d). Just think blood curling screams and hands just barely hanging on to every hold for the final three moves to the anchors. Stellar.

Our past two days have been fantastic rest days apart from a little taste of the dark side of human kind. Driving to the Starbucks in Richmond for a quick coffee and internet check, we spotted two men with their fists up in the distance. Putting on the brakes, I was captivated by that innate, slightly sick, human desire to witness some carnage. Yet even from a distance I could tell that it would be an unfair fight, as the one man (we shall call him the giant) towered over the other. All too quickly, the giant had the other pinned and was smashing his whole body into the pavement. As the giant stood up and walked away, leaving the other unmoving on the ground, I parked the car and we booked it over to find the man unconscious and convulsing on the ground. A group gathered quickly enough and as another lady and I sat by his head until he woke up, we witnessed the police come and arrest the giant. The man on the ground woke up with serious short term memory loss (‘what fight?’), yet he was calm and cooperative with the paramedics. Watching the giant in the back of the cop car, I fought the shivers that ran up and down my spine. I cannot fathom the violence that must consume one in order to introduce another to such pain. Deflated from the experience, Nick, Zak and I were all too glad to head back to Lago Linda’s, where ideas of such violence are nonexistent.

Tomorrow we’re back at the Motherlode, where I’m psyched to give Bohica a solid attempt or three.

Happy days everyone. Smile, be well, and treat others with respect.

Terrifying Beautiful

Zak sorting out the endless pockets on Ultraperm (5.13d), Bob Marley Crag

Autumn Colours

Zak finding some new love in the finger crack of Rock Wars (5.10a), Long Wall

Hello Lovely People!

It’s a slow, relaxing rest day here at Lago Linda’s, so I figured I would sort through some photos from the past week and give you all a peek at the beauty of Kentucky!

Enjoy and keep Smiling!

Zak braving the sun soaked crimps on True Love, 13d. Gold Coast

Picnic Shinanigins

Regan on a Rocketship

Kids on the Inside

Enjoying the Beautiful Rock at the Gold Coast. Golden Boy, 5.13b. Photo Credit: Zak McGurk

Leafy New Perspectives

Audrey Sniezek cruising a lap in the Solarium.

Bonfire. Crown. What more could one ask for really? Photo Credit: Nick Rochacewich

Well here we are. I’ve finally done it. I made a blog. Rather, I entered in a few key pieces of information, such as my name, and voila! My very own blog. It’s like Magic.

Now, why a blog? I’m not a very technology-savvy person. I get antsy sitting on computers, and I really believe that my mother knows more about the goings-on of the inter-highway than I do. I’m a person of no real importance. I haven’t discovered anything mind-blowing, or earth-shattering, or accomplished any glorious feat. That being said, I do have something that no one else in this world has. My own eyes. Therefore, this is a blog about the world through my eyes. One of the main reasons for starting up this blog is to share all of my pictures with you all. I love photography, and with the digital age in full swing, I’m finding that my pictures are just gathering dust in the far reaches of my computer hard drive.

So here we go, enjoy a few of my favourite pictures of a few of my favourite people doing my favourite thing!

Sonnie Trotter feelin some flight, Hueco Tanks TX

Sarah Austin on the 5-Star Boulder, Goldbar WA

Ryan Olson tiptoeing up Timeline, Mt. Evans CO