Vikki Weldon

I’m sitting here jittering in my seat, my head exploding with all the things I want to share with all you wonderful people! I have so many things to say, where to START?! Beginnings are always a good place, but I’m going to be a rebel and start in the middle, because the beginning can be summed up in one word: RAIN. So who wants to hear about that? Noooo thankyou. THE MIDDLE: Beginning of July and it’s soooort of beginning to look like summer in Canmore. Mrs. Sunshine is being a bit of a flake and only showing up every so often, more interested in doing her make up in her big cloud house up in the sky. (But don’t worry, when she decides to show up she looks FANTASTIC!). I’ve settled into my amazing job at the Canmore Hospital working as a student nurse, learning a lot and being mentored by some of the most amazing nurses I have ever met. It’s a wicked hospital that I have my mind set on coming back to after I graduate and become a real nurse. Canmore is a town that warm the heart and brings an eternal smile to your face. I have thrived in this gorgeous setting, and have my heart set on making it my home in the near future!

Beautiful Canmore

I’ve also been ROCK CLIMBING. And it’s amazing. I virtually climbed on every single one of my days off work (minus Rainy days, but those seem to fade from memory..), and it was amazing. I love the Rockies. I love limestone. Acephale, one of Canada’s premiere rock climbing destinations, is my own personal Heaven. My love for outdoor climbing was fostered here, and each subsequent visit confirms the fact that I made a very wise choice copying my big brother and sister when they began climbing. I also enjoyed a number of days climbing at Planet X and the Coliseum up on Grotto Mountain. All of these crags can be found in Derek Galloway’s new guidebook, Bow Valley Sport which arrived in early July. It’s an amazing guidebook, full of colour photos and all that jazz! Check it out here.

The Bow Valley's amazing new guidebook. Author: Derek Galloway

Stacey gettin' her speed psych on before busting her ass from Canmore to Calgary. What a trooper

I’ve been really lucky to have amazing friends here in Canmore who share my passion for climbing and smilin’! I’ve been living with my big sister, Stacey, who I love to bits and pieces! She’s doing her final practicum in Canmore for nursing. We’ve worked together for a handful of shifts and had some great bonding experiences that only two sister nurses can have.

I had an amazing month in July. I have to say it was my single most productive month of rock climbing EVER. I was successful in climbing a handful of 513′s, including a bunch of wicked lines at Acephale. Naissance de la Femme (5.13b) is a stellar line at the Lower Wall, with a massive heart breaker deadpoint at the very end. After sending this line, it only got better. After a few days of work, I sent Whale Back (5.13c) at the Upper Wall. This line is such a star. It contained everything from massive heel hook rock overs to a rose move to a wicked slab crux! The day I sent Whale Back, I quickly took my draws down and walked 50 feet up along the wall and stood below a dream. My dream. Since I was 13 years old I have had this single route floating in the back of my mind, waiting until I was ready. I achieved this life long dream this month. In fact, it was only a couple of days ago, and I’m still riding the high!

Joe Kinder on Endless Summer. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Endless Summer, graded 5.13d, is situated at the far right of the Upper Wall, before the Pavement area begins. It climbs up through the cave that it shares with routes such as Existence Mundane (5.14b) and Bunda de Fora (5.14d). The crux is situated at the beginning of the small roof and continues until you bust over the lip. It’s wicked and powerful. Putting the draws up that day was an epic. I could not complete a single move for the entire bottom section of the climb. My butt was handed to me over and over, and although I was laughing and having fun, a little voice in my mind was sayin’ “Hoooooooly moly, this may not be possible little miss Viks”. Yet each day, I began to link moves. I gathered beta and I worked hard to link sections together. I ended each day breathing hard and feeling an entire body soreness that I love. Soon I had it down to 3 sections. Then down to 2. Each day, as I packed the rope away, my glimmer of hope shone brighter and brighter. Next day. My body had to be fresh to link the moves through the roof and my mind fresher to hold it together though the “mono” (I stuck 2 tips in that sucker!) section at the top. On Sunday morning, my good friend Alex Quiring and I headed to the crag in the early morning. We were at the ditch by 8:00am, an alpine start by sport climbing standards. I had to be back at work for 3pm, which left only a few hours to give the project some burns. We arrived at the crag just after 9am, and immediately felt we were in an alternate universe. The Upper Wall was blasted with sun. Anyone who climbs at Acephale knows that a down jacket and a thermos of hot tea are staples up there, as the sun moves off the wall at around 11am. Al and I were PSYCHED.

Pre Hike Psych!

It's SUNNY!

Look Guys! I rodeo clipped the first draw and no backclip! Wow!

Warming up in the sun felt fantastic. With the crag to ourselves, we bathed in the sunshine as I prepped for my first burn of the day. I was feeling a little slow, a little stiff, and was keen on a warm up burn. Yet something wonderful happened as I grabbed that first crimp at the bottom of the route. My mind was clear, I was still chuckling over a joke shared earlier, and the rock felt good. I did not float up this route. No. I worked hard. I yelled a bit, I breathed hard and I tried my darndest. But it went. As I pulled over the lip, the sun hit my back and I breathed and smiled at the rest. I took my time and felt strong pulling to the chains. As soon as the rope snapped in, I let out a whoop! I sat back in my harness and felt the best high a climber can feel. I sent my dream route on my 5th day of attempts, in the sunshine, with a great friend, in my own personal heaven. Yahoooooooooooooo!

The Send! Photo courtesy of my belayer/photographer AQ!

At the Top!!!!

Happy would be an Understatement

But wait, the fun doesn’t stop there! Yesterday, Al and I set out on our second day of fun in the sun. Or so we thought.. We were psyched to get on a sport multi-pitch by the name of Sisyphus Summits. The route takes a prime line up the North-East face of Ha Ling Peak, a striking mountain on the edge of Canmore.

Sisyphus Summits (5.10d). 21 pitches. Photo: www.banffrock.ca

We had decided on an early start, but waking up felt tough and we bumbled around for a while before we headed out.

Organizing..or something like that

Too kool for skool

Rosy Cheeks and Eager Smiles

We left the car at 9:30am and arrived at the base of the route just under an hour later. To our dismay, a party of 2 was just leaving the second pitch. After some discussion, we decided to give them an extra birth of half an hour, hoping that would give us enough space to not have any issue. WRONG. As we reached the first set of anchors, we saw that they had not even left the third belay station. They were struggling. Worse, the sun we had so hoped to stay with us began to leave the cliff. We were left in the shade with a core-chilling wind that would stay with us all day. For the next 3 hours, we shivered at each belay station, waiting for the first party to climb. After only 4 pitches, we began to seriously contemplate bailing. At this rate, we would be climbing in the dark. What made matters worse is the following conversation, after which we promptly gave this party the nickname Team Douchebag or (TDB for short)

Al calling up to the belayer “Hey! Do you guys mind if we pass you?”

A pause. TDB “Ya”

Did we hear him right? Al “You do mind?”

“Ya!” Douchebag.

Check out Video #1

But shortly after, things turned around. To our joyous surprise, TDB decided to bail! Psyched! After exchanging some pleasantries as we passed them (Turns out they were pretty nice guys, yet after much deliberation I have concluded they still deserve their nickname), Al and I were PSYCHED!

Yahoooooo Moutain Dew!! We finally get to climb!

After that, it was smooth sailing. We doubled up on pitches, which made for a speedy and fun ascent, with awesome rock (expect for the death pitch #13. 2 bolts in 26 metres through complete choss). The only downside was the cold that shook up to the core. It wasn’t a wintery cold. My fingers were fine, my feet has blood in them. But my core was frozen. My shoulders are sore from shivering. It wasn’t until we ate dinner that night did my chill abate. After a total of 9 hours, Al and I reached the top, incredibly psyched and all smiles. The best feeling was the moment I peeked my head over the lip and sunshine blasted my face. I will never take sunshine for granted ever again!

The Final Pitch

Waaaaa SUNSHINE!!!!!

Video #2

Look over there!!

Looong way down

All Smiles

End of the Day!

After a beautiful hike down in the sun, scoping out new cliffs on the way, and an amazing dinner at the Grizzly Paw in the company of our good friend, Canmore’s sweetheart Zak McGurk, I crawled into bed, completely tuckered to the core.

I love my life.

(And the goofiness that goes with it!)

Goof

This past Saturday was the first Western TDB of the season! The Edge in North Vancouver hosted it, and I was bummed not to be competing due to my stubborn knee. So I borrowed my friend Jamie Chong’s camera and made a movie instead!
This is my very first movie! I apologize for it being so grainy. It was a dark gym that night! Enjoy.

The Edge Tour de Bloc 2011 from Vikki Weldon on Vimeo.

Ok, so truth me told, I’m a geeky sport climber. I love clippin’ bolts! Unfortunately I reside in Vancouver, where the sport climbin’ ain’t what the locals are bragging about. But I can still dream!

Recently, I made a little tear in my LCL (Lateral Collateral Ligament..that’s on the outside of the knee) of my right knee. Bummer. It was my first day home in Calgary and I was doing a little forerunning after a super energetic and fun boulder setting session. Mix a right heel hook with an intense rock over and a hold just out of reach and you get a POP! It was a bummer, but truth be told, I haven’t been too upset about it. I am no stranger to injury. I feel I have said that numerous times on this blog. I am an injury prone climber. It sucks. But I’m learning to deal with it better, and I am getting better at listening to my body (for the most part). I told me dad right after this latest injury that if I was bummed every single time I got injured, that I would never be a very happy person. Constant tweaks and strains are a common occurrence in my life. I am slowly but surely learning how to deal.

Some Acupuncture from my Favourite Physio!

With this ideal in mind, I was thanking my lucky stars that it wasn’t another upper body injury. Lower body I can deal with. In fact, it proved to be a huge motivator for me. Upon acknowledging that my fingers and shoulders were still intact and strong, I have decided to hit the campus board and TRAIN. It’s amazing.  I am psyched, and I feel this is the way forward in my climbing. With my knee still giving me some grief, I can’t quite climb yet, but I feel if I keep up with the campus board and the finger board, I am going to get STRONG!

So with that in mind, I got all giddy one day and made an incomplete list of the routes I want to do in Canada. I am also working on a boulder list as well, so I’ll share that in a bit when it’s longer and I dream a bit bigger!

Here it is in no particular order! I hope this inspires you to make a list of your own, or update it, or share it here! Goals are only made goals when they are written down! Some of these routes I feel are quite attainable, others, like The Path, are not. Yamabushi and Blue Jeans are bolted multi-pitches on Yamnuska. Super exposed and way out of my comfort zone. But it doesn’t mean it’s impossible!

My hardest route to date: Division Bell 5.13d. Pulse (5.14a) climbs the direct start. Photo: Jamie Chong

Free Will 5.13c (Chek, BC)

Dynosaur Highway 5.14a (Horne Lake, BC)

Endless Summer 5.13d/14a (Acephale, AB)

Whaleback 5.13d (Acephale, AB)

Naissance de la Femme 5.13b (Acephale, AB)

The Illusionist 5.14a (Planet X, AB)

Fudge Packer 5.13d (Planet X, AB)

Yamabushi 5.13a (Yamnuska, AB) – multipitch

Blue Jeans 5.13c (Yamnuska, AB) – multipitch

The Path 514a (Lake Louise, AB) – gear

It’s a work in progress!! I can’t wait for spring and my big biceps to come!! What’s your list?

THE PATH from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

Yamabushi from Michael Klekamp on Vimeo.

Simon Parton. Heard of him? He’s about 5’6″ or 7″ and about 120lbs, give or take a few. He’s the skinniest, most translucent boy you will ever see. Put him in a baggy sweater and he’s disappear right before your eyes. But his heart and his passion for the sport of climbing could scarcely be contained within a giant.

Recently, Parton jumped south of the border for a much needed break of the rain soaked forests of Squamish, along with his girlfriend Tiffany. The two planned to head to Bishop for the entire trip, yet the rain decided to follow them down, and they were run out of town and escaped into the deep south of Hueco Tanks, Texas. Lucky bastards.

SP working The Maze of Death, Bishop CA (Photo from FB)

While in Bishop, Parton climbed 4 V10s, 3 V0s (1 second go even) and a bunch of shit in between. The guy documents every single problem he does on his 8a account. Impressive, considering that almost every day Mother Nature decided to turn on the water spouts, but look further. The kid wasn’t done yet.

Parton on Loaded Direct, Hueco Tanks (Photo from FB)

Fast forward to Hueco Tanks. His very first day, Parton sent Terre de Sienne (V14) second go. No big deal. While there is some debate on the grade of the problem (as there is with all hard problems, and will be forever), it is no doubt an extremely impressive send, and one of the guy’s hardest to date. Congrats Simon! He also was able to send Tequila Sunrise (V12) and Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12). No doubt a productive trip.

Parton has long lurked in the shadows while putting down many of the hardest that Squamish has to offer. Now that he’s burst out of the forest in a full fledged run let’s see if he’ll keep up the pace. He’s one to watch out for in the future, that’s for sure.

Here’s a video of Simon climbing in Hueco on a previous trip.

This past weekend I spent both days under the shadow of the Chief in Squamish. I haven’t bouldered in Squamish for a few months, and to be honest, I hadn’t been that psyched to spend that much time there this summer. I was tired of the same old problems and areas. But this weekend, I headed out with a group of psyched climbers, keen on finding some different boulders. With the help of the new Squamish Bouldering guidebook authored by Marc Bourdon, which contains tons of new problems, we had an amazing weekend!

I tried a ton of new problems, and rediscovered my love of the Squamish boulders.

I also began to work on a beautiful and often climbed V10 at the Grand Wall Boulders called Worm World Low. I have done the stand start, which is a soft V9, and had dabbled on the low start a few times last summer. I have never put a huge effort into a boulder problem. I most often focus on sport routes in the summer. Last summer I put my heart and soul into Division Bell, up at Chek. Yet this summer, I’ve been bouldering alot and I think it would be amazing to try something hard and to put a lot of effort into it. Worm World Low is perfect, because all the hard moves are made with your left arm, which saves my still recovering right shoulder. So I’ve made it my goal to try Worm World Low and just see what happens.
Also, lately the girls have been KILLING IT in the boulder fields. Thomasina Pidgeon recently climbed The Summoning Sit, a sick V12 at the Murrin boulders near Squamish. Angie Payne just sent No More Greener Grasses, a stiff V12 at Mount Evans. Alex Puccio also recently sent Centaur, V12, and flashed a V10 called Fireball. It’s just amazing to see such power and strength come from these dedicated climbers, and I know they are all capable of pushing the boundaries of female bouldering. I’m inspired and psyched and I want to climb as hard as them. One step at a time!

Here are a few pics from the weekend.

Ryan working Stalling Tim, V10

Jamie running a lap on Killing Me Softly, V6

Enjoying Prime Time Sit, V5, at the Murrin boulders

Ryan Chilling with the Chief

FREE RANGE TURKEY_dispatch #7 from camp4 collective on Vimeo.

Finally, I recently came across this short video clip of Yuji Hirayama, one of the most impressive rock climbers in the world. I say impressive, because not only is he a talented and intelligent climber, with the capability to onsight 5.14 routes, he is also one of the most positive and happiest people. This video showcases this attitude and I was so inspired by Yuji’s philosophy. So check it out, feel the psych, and go climb some rock!

Just stumbled upon this little blast from the past. My big brother, Chris, climbs ‘Be On Four’, a beautiful highball with a treacherous landing in the forest of Squamish. Chris was the one who started this whole ‘Weldon family of climbing’ thing we have going on now. My mother proudly boasts that she felt him swinging on her rib cage when he was in the womb. Having become more up to date on my anatomy, I now know this is not true. But truly, he is a pure rock climber, heart and soul.

I always find my siblings inspiring. My sister, Stacey, is going to compete at her first Boulder Nationals next weekend since who knows when. She’s been plagued by numerous injuries (those damn Weldon genes can be ruthless), but she never gives up and now it seems she’s been making a big comeback. Just check out the east coast Tour de Bloc results. She’s definitely been leading the pack in the majority of the competitions she’s been competing in.  Can’t wait to see how Nationals goes for her! And of course, Mike, the little (or I suppose, fairly large and hairy) power house pulls up the rear as the youngster of the family. I’m continuously overjoyed to go climbing with my little bro. I’ve never met a more positive force in my life. He’s back in Calgary for the summer, so he should be psyched on a solid season of pulling down in the gorgeous Rocky Mountains.

Weldon Sibs (minus Chris) clowning around in Maple Canyon (circa 2000ish)

I love my bro’s and sis.

(Chris is still smelly though)