Climbographs!

June 6, 2010 - 2:22 am 3 Comments

Howdy. Here are a few fun climbing snaps from a weekend trip to Pemberton Ryan and I took a few weeks ago. It was perfect weather and we both had a great time, climbing on the classics of the area.
Into the Light is a beautiful problem and according to Ryan, “probably the best boulder problem in B.C.” Phew! What a claim! It sure was fantastic though.
We were also lucky enough to bump into a friend from Squamish who gave us the low down in a beautiful little gem hidden beside a waterfall. It felt like we were in a fantasy world, hiding in the little alcove right next to a raging waterfall. Such a trip.

Well, that’s all for now. I just hope you enjoy these photos.

Side note: Stacey (my big sis!) finished an impressive 24th place in her first open bouldering world cup in Vail, CO this weekend. Ryan also competed and finished an equally impressive 26th place. One fall from making semi-finals. Balls! Next time! Sean McColl finished 16th, falling out of the final 6 after the semi-final round. I’m sure the big guy ain’t too happy, but hell, he has a whole summer of Euro fun to make up for it. Have a wonderful trip!

Until next time,

xoxo

Morning Blossoms

Morning Blossoms

Olson climbing "Into the Light" Classic!

Olson climbing "Into the Light" Classic!

Into the Light once again

Into the Light once again

Brushin off 'em rocks

Brushin off 'em rocks

Dazed and confused on "White Bread Lover"

Dazed and confused on "White Bread Lover"

Into the Light. Step 1

Step 2!

Gushing Waterfall. Classic Unnamed

Five Ten

May 30, 2010 - 11:05 pm 1 Comment

I’m really really excited to announce that I’ve been accepted as an athlete for Team Five Ten. Five Ten has been making shoes since before I was  that big annoying bump hanging off my mama’s belly. I can remember back when I was a wee lass and had just graduated from the Boreal Ninjas, I was quickly drawn into the world of Five Ten. I would continually climb through pair after pair of the ol’ Dragon’s, refusing to take them off my feet even when my big toe was scrapping against the walls. I just received a box of shoes, which I opened with the gusto of a 5-year old at Christmas time. I’m back wearing Five Ten’s! I’m ecstatic to be an ambassador for such a fantastic and respected company.

In joining the Five Ten team, I have had to resign as a member of Team Mad Rock. Mad Rock invited me to the team in 2003. I can still remember my teenage voice yelling in excitement in my head as I stammered out a trembly ‘thank you..’ to Timy Fairfield as he offered me a spot on the team. In the past 7 years, Mad Rock has supported me endlessly, and I cannot thank them enough. I feel they are a wonderful and innovative company who truly cares for their products and their athletes. I wish them all the best in the future!

TDB Nationals Final Results

May 24, 2010 - 5:02 am 4 Comments

Hey team.

Just sneaking around the interweb and saw a few posts about the final results. Couldn’t find the full results (not sneaky enough) but here are the top 3 in each category:

Women’s

1. Clarrie Lam

2. Elise Sethna

3. Melissa Lacasse

Men’s

1. Sean McColl

2. Yves Gravelle

3. Terry Paholek

These are the provisional results apparently, so don’t get all cranky if there is a mistake.

Stacey ended up finishing 4th. A strong finish for a girl making a comeback in the world of competition rock climbing. She admitted she was a tad bit upset, but when I chatted with her she was all happy and ready to enjoy friends and bubbly drinks at the afterparty. There seems to be a theme with the comeback girls lately. Angie Payne made quite the show last weekend at the ‘Battle in the Bubble’ in Boulder, CO, just barely conceding to Alex Puccio on the final problem. She’s apparently been out for the game for quite a while due to an intense injury. It’s all very inspiring to watch these girls perservere and come back strong.

On another note, I also heard that the prize money for this competition was given for up the 6 places in the Men’s category and only up to 3 places in the Women’s. Don’t quote me on these exact numbers by the way. In any case, it is an interesting situation. There were 44 men registered in the competition while only 15 girls entered. That is a whopping big difference. And in that respect, then perhaps it is fair to give more money for guys? BUT..think about it. Girlies don’t have a choice to be girlies. They just are. They cannot control how many of their sex enters into a competition. They try just a hard as the guys to earn their ranking at the end. So how come they should get penalized for this? Also, prize money is normally given out equally to both men and women through out the TDB circuit. Prize money is not controlled by the TDB, but rather the gyms that hold the comps. And there normally is alot more men than women at any given competition. So it seems to be out of the ordinary, and may be why it is causing a bit of an upset.

Just something to think about. I’m sure there will be lot’s of debate on the subject. There are always two sides to the story. In my opinion, I would say that it is unfair to give less money to the girls. But I am a girlie. So I’m a tad bit biased. Anyways, your thoughts ladies and gents?

Canadian Nationals Qualifier Results

May 23, 2010 - 4:39 am No Comments

The first day of the 2010 Canadian National Championships are finished folks! Here are the results. Keep your eyes peeled for tomorrow’s finals results!

Just a note…check out who is dominating the women’s field. Big sister’s making a comeback!!

Big Bro: The Visionary..or something like that

May 17, 2010 - 5:23 am No Comments

Just stumbled upon this little blast from the past. My big brother, Chris, climbs ‘Be On Four’, a beautiful highball with a treacherous landing in the forest of Squamish. Chris was the one who started this whole ‘Weldon family of climbing’ thing we have going on now. My mother proudly boasts that she felt him swinging on her rib cage when he was in the womb. Having become more up to date on my anatomy, I now know this is not true. But truly, he is a pure rock climber, heart and soul.

I always find my siblings inspiring. My sister, Stacey, is going to compete at her first Boulder Nationals next weekend since who knows when. She’s been plagued by numerous injuries (those damn Weldon genes can be ruthless), but she never gives up and now it seems she’s been making a big comeback. Just check out the east coast Tour de Bloc results. She’s definitely been leading the pack in the majority of the competitions she’s been competing in.  Can’t wait to see how Nationals goes for her! And of course, Mike, the little (or I suppose, fairly large and hairy) power house pulls up the rear as the youngster of the family. I’m continuously overjoyed to go climbing with my little bro. I’ve never met a more positive force in my life. He’s back in Calgary for the summer, so he should be psyched on a solid season of pulling down in the gorgeous Rocky Mountains.

Weldon Sibs (minus Chris) clowing around in Maple Canyon (circa 2000ish)

Weldon Sibs (minus Chris) clowning around in Maple Canyon (circa 2000ish)

I love my bro’s and sis.

(Chris is still smelly though)

Blurr Spring 2010

May 12, 2010 - 5:19 am No Comments

logo

Just a quick heads up that Blurr has their new 2010 spring line up and running. Looks like a great bunch of comfy and fantastic clothes once again!

Based out of Squamish, Blurr is an enthusiastic that has truly made its mark on the climbing world. And now having hooked up with La Sportiva, the Canadian brand is making it way across the waters to Europe. Pretty sweet!

Here’s a little blast from the past of some unique  advertisements that Blurr had out in the climbing mags and a link to an interesting article about them!

JasonKehl

JoeKinderLisaDumper

NateGoldObeCarrion

Which one is your favourite boys and girls??

Canadian Summer is Approaching!

April 30, 2010 - 2:16 am 1 Comment

A lovely sunny day here in good ol’ Van city. Don’t judge me that I’m sitting on my couch staring at this glowing screen. I have the best and oldest excuse in the book: “finals are a’comin!”
Yup, I’m just about finished Level 1 of my nursing degree. Only 5 more levels to go! (That’s 3 years in total for all you non-BCIT nursing students). But that doesn’t mean I’m on break for the summer. Oh no…I have 3 summer courses to take that are required for the program. Yummy. How does “Critical Reading and Writing” float your boat? No? “Applied Ethics”? Hmm..alright, I won’t bore you anymore with all that. The good news is I’m looking forward to a good number of days out in Squamish this summer! I have a few hard projects in mind, but mainly I’m extremely psyched to get up high in the sky up on the Chief.

But right now, I have a nagging shoulder injury that must be dealt with. I unfortunately tweaked the darn thing in February and it hasn’t quite healed yet. This may largely be in part do to my heinous studying posture.

Lower-right hand corner has my name written all over it..

Lower-right hand corner has my name written all over it..

Leading up to the summer, my goal is to regain my shoulder health and strength so I can dedicate myself to some crushing :)

That’s all for now. I’ve added the videos from last years TDB Nationals, which is being held this year in Toronto at the infamous Joe Rockhead’s May 22-23rd. This will be my second year not competing at the Canadian Nationals, and I know I’ll be missing one hell of a show once again.

So keep up the training ladies and gents! Loads of summer climbing ahead!

Love :)

Tour de Bloc Regionals

April 5, 2010 - 7:49 pm No Comments

This past weekend was the Western Tour de Bloc Regionals!

Cliffside Climbing Gym in Kamloops, BC held the Open qualifiers, combined with a fun comp for youth and adults. This was the first competition held in Kamloops since I was a youngster, and I must say that Simon and Sabrina (the owners) did a pretty darn good job!

Beyond the Crux (Kelowna, BC) held a CEC sanctioned youth comp and citizen’s comp in the morning and put on a spectacular show for finals in the evening. With a bit of a nagging shoulder problem right now, I opted to keep two feet on the ground and watch my friends crush this weekend.

Finals at the Crux were incredible! Mike and April Shannon are the masters of fun, and they showed their true colours this weekend. Problem #3 (aka ‘The Shark Pit’)  for both men and women was the showcase of the evening, with a massive blown up shark and pirhana with laser beams attached to their heads providing some motivation for climbers to stay on the wall. A big swing also started the climbers off. It was some good ol’ fashioned fun climbers and spectators alike. I have to say that whenever there is a comp in K-town, you are guaranteed a riot of a time!

The night ended with a suprise kidnapping of Gary Foster, the lucky unsuspecting birthday boy, who ended up with his hand and feet hog tied and a pillow case taped unnecessarily tight over his eyes. The kidnappers brought Gary to Mike and April’s house where his girlfriend, Karly,  his parents and his friends were all waiting. It was a grand night, with a bonfire, Mike Shannon’s infamous ‘salty pork’ and tractor barrel racing.

Although I didn’t compete this weekend, I still had a fantastic time. I was also motivated to get over my injury and start climbing harder than ever!

Here are the results from the comp this weekend. Ryan came 3rd!! :)

Women’s Open
1. Tiffany Melius
2. Amanda Berezowski
3. Audrey Sniezek
4. Clarrie Lam
5. Elise Sethna
6. Sarah Austin
7. Maria Celkova
8. Regan Kennedy

Men’s Open
1. Sean McColl
2. Terry Paholek
3. Ryan Olson
4. Miles Adamson
5. Josh Muller
6. Jamie Chong
7. Pat Valade
8. Nate Woods

Enjoy some pics! They’re not in order and totally random, but they’re colorful and show the fun!

Tiffany at the TDB qualifiers in Kamloops

Tiffany at the TDB qualifiers in Kamloops

Amanda B.

Amanda B.

Alison S-P.

Alison S-P.

Nate W.

Nate W.

Nate W.

Nate W.

Maria C.

Maria C.

Josh M.

Josh M.

Does he do it?

Does he do it?

Jamie C.

Jamie C.

Alex 'Dirty Q-tip' Q.

Alex 'Dirty Q-tip' Q.

Ryan O.

Ryan O.

Ben M.

Ben M.

Clarrie and Gary, the unsuspecting birthday boy

Clarrie and Gary, the unsuspecting birthday boy

Big Ben

Big Ben

Little Ben

Little Ben

Medium sized Ben

Medium sized Ben

Leo

Leo

Tim

Tim

Little Thomas making big moves

Little Thomas making big moves

Selena

Selena

Thomas

Thomas

Some green wall fun

Some green wall fun

Ben F.

Ben F.

Selena

Selena

Kyle

Kyle

Sean M. looking a little shaky on problem #2 ;)  PHOTO: Ryan Olson

Sean M. looking a little shaky on problem #2 ;) PHOTO: Ryan Olson

Josh M. reliving a childhood moment on problem #3. PHOTO: Ryan Olson

Josh M. reliving a childhood moment on problem #3. PHOTO: Ryan Olson

Jelly

March 19, 2010 - 3:32 am No Comments

Have you ever listened to music and felt that tingly feeling in your heart? You get really excited and inspired and life seems bright and wonderful? That’s what I felt when I listened to my friend, Jelisa Dunbar, work her magical voice and guitar plucking fingers.

Jelisa and I go back to the days when we were both little gangly girls, monkeying around the climbing gym with not a care in the world. We used to push eachother to try harder and not fall by saying “don’t fall into the LAVA!” Jelly always had this one cryptic technique of locking off past her toes and working her fingers up the wall until they eventually crawled up overtop of the hold. I called it her “spider move”. jelisaNow she’s all grown up with a full throated beautiful voice. I was privileged to  hear her live once a few years ago. She’s now playing at various venues around Calgary and I wish so much that I could go.

If you’re around Calgary, or even miles away, and you can get to Calgary, she is playing this Saturday (March 20th, 2010) at Shotz Bar at 8:15pm.

You can check out her my space page here to have a taste of the tingly heart feeling!

Shotz Bar

321 3508 32nd Ave NE

Go check her out. I promise it will be amazing. Hopefully she’ll come play a show in Vancouver soon enough.

Some Clarification on the Shoe Drama..

March 17, 2010 - 8:54 pm No Comments

Dan Archambault (Team Canada captain for Mad Rock) posted this on his Facebook yesterday. It’s an article written by SNEWS.


When
Joe Garland responded to a SNEWS® inquiry seeking more details behind
his
announced Jan. 11 departure from Mad Rock, he said, by email, “I will
have a very good answer to everyone’s questions (not just yours) in two
weeks. Thanks for contacting me. Sorry to be so cryptic. The reply is
worth
waiting for.” (Click here to read our Jan. 13, 2010, story,
“Garland
exits Mad Rock citing internal differences.”)

Although
it took a bit more than two weeks, Garland revealed on Feb. 5 via a news
release to the climbing media and, we were told, retailers, distributors
and
other select recipients, that he was launching a new climbing company
called
Climb X.

While
the news itself was not so earthshaking, the manner in which it was
presented
certainly left more than a few industry readers confused. Based on the
release,
it appeared Climb X was taking over Mad Rock’s business operations.
Naturally, the blogosphere, email churn and more began to go into
overdrive,
simply passing along the news and sometimes adding to it with potential
misperceptions.

In
an attempt to sort out the kernels of truth amid the possible hyperbole,
rumor
and speculation bantered about, SNEWS launched an investigation,
including on
the ground at Germany’s ispo show going on this week, as well as by
phone, email and even fax (old school, we know).

Here is what we
uncovered:

It
is an undisputed fact that Garland has launched a new climbing company
with
global distribution aspirations called Climb X. It is registered in
Canada as
Climb-X Sports Inc., and the company has two trademarks approved for
ClimbX
recently registered in both Canada and the United States. Plus, it was
exhibiting at the ispo show in the Everest booth — the same booth as
Mad Rock.

Additionally,
neither Garland nor the new Climb X company have any rights to anything
owned
by Mad Rock, including materials, designs, trademarks, patents, product,
etc.
Mad Rock’s parent company is Nelson Sports, a California-registered
corporation owned by Young Chu.

As
for the information in the release — sent by the PR company Subrosa
Group of
Nurnberg, Germany, on behalf of Garland — it contains numerous errors
or
statements that can easily be miscontrued according to our research.

>>
The official Climb X news release began by stating: “Joseph Garland, a
founding member of Mad Rock Climbing since its inception in 2002 who
announced
his departure from the company in early January has returned to the
industry,
and is now working for Mad Rock’s parent company and
manufacturer.”

However,
that is not exactly true. Garland has never been an employee of Mad
Rock,
according to Chu. Even Garland acknowledged Nelson Sports owns Mad Rock
in a
Feb. 5 email to SNEWS where he stated, “The brand name Mad Rock has been
and as far as I know owned by Young Chu and Nelson Sports.”

So, Garland
is not working for Mad Rock’s parent company at all.

And,
while Garland may have been brought in as a contractor to oversee sales
and
marketing of the new Mad Rock brand around the time of its launch in
2002, calling
himself a founding member does appear to be stretching the limits of the
definition.

>>
The news release continued: “Three of Mad Rock’s original
partners: Alex Kim, Ken Kim and Joe Garland will continue the business
under
the new name ‘Climb X,’ with Joe Garland being named its new
President. Original Mad Rock President and partner Young Chu will retain
the
Mad Rock name, but is no longer a member of this group.”

While
Chu acknowledged to SNEWS in a phone interview that Alex Kim was, in
fact, made
a minority partner of the factory that Mad Rock set up in China, he was
not and
never has been a partner in the Mad Rock business or the Nelson Sports
business. Though Chu did not know who Ken Kim was, Garland confirmed to
SNEWS
by email that he was Alex Kim’s brother.

It
is also important to point out that neither Garland nor the Kim brothers
are
continuing any business of Mad Rock. They are, as Chu has detailed to
us,
simply launching a new company: Climb X. And, of course, Chu is
retaining the
Mad Rock name — since he owns the company.

>>
According to the Climb X news release: “Climb X will assume the
former
Mad Rock operation, its distributors, most of its sales reps,
international
staff, warehouse, factory & production, and product development
facility,
as well as its Chinese and international warehouse facilities.”

In
truth, Climb X is not assuming the former Mad Rock operations. Put
simply, it
is now manufacturing in the same factory in China that Mad Rock has
used,
Tianjin Hardstone Outdoor Co. Further, according to Chu, Mad Rock has
already
exited that facility in favor of a new factory that Chu had been setting
up in
Vietnam.

Chu told us that the company was waiting to announce the new
factory
until it was fully operational, but the news from Garland forced him to
go
public sooner. The factory is already producing chalk bags, crash pads
and
other softgoods, Chu told us, and will soon be producing climbing shoes
and
other Mad Rock gear. International warehousing has already been moved as
well.

In
a Feb. 5 news release posted to its website, Mad Rock (www.madrockclimbing.com)
officially announced the new factory for the first time: “Mad Rock
Climbing is happy to announce that the move from China to Vietnam was a
success.

Even though the transition was difficult, it was a necessary
move in
the face of overwhelming price increases in China. We will be able to
pass on
savings to the dealers and consumers while maintaining quality and
innovation,
which has been the cornerstone of Mad Rock’s philosophy.”

Any
statement about distributors and reps in the Climb X news release
appears a bit
premature. Of the five U.S. sales reps currently working for Mad Rock,
three
told SNEWS directly in interviews that they were continuing as Mad Rock
sales
reps. In addition — other than Everest, a German distributor with whom
Garland
apparently has a relationship — Kenny Suh, international sales and
marketing
manager for Mad Rock, told us by phone and email from ispo, as well as
in
personal conversations at the German show, that a majority of the
international
distributors currently working with Mad Rock will continue to work with
it.

Garland
disputed that assertion — so at this point, and since SNEWS has not
personally
spoken with a majority of the existing international distributors, the
issue of
which distributors are siding with which camp (Climb X or Mad Rock)
remains
unclear.

However, it is worth noting what one international business
expert
familiar with all the players and many key retailers currently selling
Mad Rock
told SNEWS: “Even if a distributor is a big fan of Garland, shifting
gears to jump on with a brand that consumers have no knowledge of or
experience
with in any market, especially in an economy that is still challenged in
most
countries, would be extremely risky. Mad Rock is a known entity and one
that is
trusted by retailers and consumers. Climb X, no matter how good it
promises to
be, is just a new brand with no sales or production track record.
However, if
Mad Rock stumbles for any reason in this next year, in deliveries or
quality
control from its new factory in Vietnam, the scenario could shift in
favor of
Climb X. Only time will tell on this issue.”

>>
The Climb X news release also stated: “Garland, who was responsible
for most of the newer products developed at Mad Rock, will be working
out of
offices in Portland, Oregon, with satellite offices in Munich, Germany
and
Beijing, China.”

Both
Chu and Suh told SNEWS that the claim by Garland that he was responsible
for
many of Mad Rock’s product design and development is simply not true.

In
a follow-up email to SNEWS where we asked him to clarify his roles at
Mad Rock
prior to his departure, Garland said nothing about being involved with
design
and asserted that he managed worldwide sales and marketing for the
company with
“the Brothers Alex and Ken on the factory, production and financing
side,
(and) Young Chu (as) middle man and sometime designer.”

Whether
or not Garland was involved in any aspect of design or production, this
much is
fact: Following an extensive search of the U.S. Patent and Trademark
Office
website for any known or pending patents for Mad Rock or, in fact, for
any
other climbing product design for any other company, Garland’s name does
not appear. On the other hand, Chu holds four U.S. patents as an
inventor. The
first, for a climbing shoe with a concave sole for which the patent was
applied
on April 23, 2001 — before Garland ever joined the company and before
Mad Rock
was even formed. Another patent for a safety buckle, filed on April 24,
2004,
was granted Sept. 19, 2006, and another for a climbing shoe heel design
was
granted on March 14, 2006.

>>
The release from Climb X also stated: “Climb X stock will be
available
in early March for dealers and distributors from a relocated
distribution
center in Las Vegas, Nevada. The logistics of relocating the offices and
DC are
geared for quicker access to the merchandise for North American dealers,
and
paves the way for a deeper pool of qualified candidates for office
staff. The Las Vegas DC has the benefit of being one shipping day closer
to eastern customers, while giving identical ship times to all western
accounts
as Mad Rock’s Orange County distribution center.”

In
truth, the offices and distribution center are not being relocated, as
Garland
asserted. He is opening new offices and a distribution center in Las
Vegas, as
a result of supporting his new company launch — which has nothing to do
with
Mad Rock.

As
for quicker shipping times, a call to FedEx confirmed there really is no
advantage as both Orange County, California, and Las Vegas serve all
parts of
the country equally well and within the same timetable, east or west.
–Michael Hodgson